Color on the Runway: Karen Walker

Karen Walker's fall 2011 ready-to-wear show was a beautiful mix of summery florals and autumnal shades,  athletic accessories and ultra-feminine skirts and dresses. These contrasts were based upon the mid-seventies Northern-soul scene in Britain, when the working-class youth spent endless nights and even entire weekends participating in competitive dancing in clubs in Northern Britain. Walker's collection took the tradition literally, incorporating three different specific styles: the typical working-class outfit, the athletic garb used for the dancing, and the "Sunday best" skirts and dresses that some women wore for the dance floor.

 

These traditional floral patterns look like they could have been lifted from an old-fashioned wallpaper, but when incorporated in modern silhouettes and combined with athletic caps and lace-up shoes, they feel like they were freshly picked.

The royal blue coat on the left is stunning; when worn in cold weather, it will certainly stand out from all those dull, lifeless black winter jackets. The long shape is loose, but tailored enough to highlight one's shape.

The dress on the right is in such a dramatic color, a deep grape color that appears slightly fluorescent due to its sheerness. This would have been perfect for the seventies British dance floors: imagine the multicolored lights bouncing off the rich color, the dramatic sweep of the cut dancing along with its wearer, and the subtle tease of the sheer quality.

 

All images from style.com

The pairing of bright, exotic patterns and cozy knitwear is one that is quite unexpected but very effective. The two looks are like traditional loungewear with twenty times the sophistication, amped up patterns, and slightly exaggerated silhouettes, but the same level of comfort.

The black vinyl panel on the look on the left is surprising and works well to modernize the pants, which would otherwise be left in pajama land. This vinyl detailing is sprinkled throughout the collection, always successful in adding a hip, sharp twist.

The final combination of looks results in an effective collaboration between happy, bright garments with a warm-weather vibe and transitional fall knits in traditional color palettes. The outfits are modern with classic, almost vintage-like details, to make for a collection that is extremely wearable and feels very right now. Each piece is unusual enough to catch the eye on the runway, but the creative sophistication embodied in the designs will make women everywhere want to whip out their credit cards. I know I'm sold!

You can view the rest of the looks from Karen Walker's fall 2011 show here.