Tsumori Chisato's Spring 2013 collection transformed Southwestern desert influences into a fashion wonderland. Mountain ranges, sunsets and the recurring imagery of an antelope skull with a rose in its mouth are envisioned against painterly colored fabrics and rich juxtapositions of texture and embroidery.
It's interesting to see a wasteland environment inspire a collection so vivid and eclectic. Yet, for those familiar with Chisato's design aesthetic, it is only to be expected. The Japanese designer is a storyteller: Spring 2013 conjures a tale of a stargazer, a dreamer with cotton-candy colored hair who finds herself engulfed in this fantastical desert paradise. Other critiques mourn the lack of a unifier, yet I find this collection to be more together than many in the past, favoring a distinct story instead of one theme that outlines a broad design spectrum.
On the other hand: whilst the looks on this Paris Fashion Week runway are eye-catching exotica, separates are enticingly wearable for those who enjoy both quirky artistry and fine craftsmanship. I, for one, have always been intrigued by Chisato's unusual choices of fabric - from terry cloth dresses to cotton tees detailed with crinkled plastic palm tree fronds.
The clothes in this collection are beautifully shaped. Many of Chisato's fashions veer towards oversized, and it is typical to find a flurry of boxy cuts and loose fits that aren't always ideal. A wide caramel-hued belt reins in a stunning emerald green printed dress. Structured peplums and sleeves complement the flow of knit maxi skirts and silky trousers.
Finally, it's clear that each piece incorporates a deeply thoughtful process of creation. One I couldn't take my eyes off of: the many dimensions of a striped-sleeve sweater, the front printed with the stargazer's porcelain face against a cerulean nighttime horizon, completed with a flourish of structure at the hips. Another pleasant surprise was a sky blue watercolor dress, slyly characterized by a sheer strip mid-leg.
My only regret is that I wish to see more of how Chisato can apply her skills to solid-colored palettes. The few that she included here were well-executed, and she could have expanded outside of prints in order to give the eyes time to absorb it all.
All images from Style.com
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