Belgrade-born fashion designer Roksanda Ilincic has a distinctly feminine aesthetic focusing on tailored, structural silhouettes. Her Spring 2013 collection incorporated that signature, but what could have been easily defined was instead multifaceted.
Designs were looser and more relaxed: generous cocoon sleeves grew from boxy silhouettes, wide-legged trousers had an exaggerated shape, and many dresses were comfortably draped along the body.
Yet this didn't deter from the role of shape and structure. The sophisticated cuts both highlighted and created curves. High-waisted pencil skirts were fitted but still full of movement. Intersecting geometric curves formed an hourglass figure. But the juxtaposition of tight and loose called to mind today's powerful working woman rather than secretary sexpot. It was a masterful combination of femininity and athleticism.
Much of the strength of this collection stemmed from the details. The color palette was integral: rich blues intertwined with cheerful shades of orange, yellow and red - inspired in part by the ways in which artist Josef Albers worked with color.
There was color blocking, but it felt fresher than the past renditions presented under the trend umbrella. The sleeves of a solid blue crop top tapered down to orange cuffs; a blue, white and black dress had reddish-orange cuffs. Oversized clutch bags added color for extra dimension, as with a vivid orange ensemble (in two different shades of the hue) paired with a bright yellow version of the accessory.
Lastly, dewy makeup and t-strap heels further refined the overall look.
Ilincic's collection was one of the strongest shown at London Fashion Week, which, in and of itself, had a powerful season.
Personally, I can't take my eyes off of the first look pictured here.
Click here to view the collection in its entirety.
Visit roksandailincic.com.
All images from Style.com
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